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Discussion in 'The Comp Buzz' started by Rob Harrison, Sep 4, 2011.
Finally one of the rocket scientist's figures it out....too funny.....
Tire shake is from the tire stretching the sidewall to a point it snaps off and bounces.. Normally the tire just ripples the sidewall and spins.. Usually tire shake starts as a big, wide ripple in the side wall, starts a harmonic and paint shaker she goes. It is caused by too much wheel speed when the car isn't ready. We say the car is weak because the car doesn't go anywhere and all of a sudden tries to apply the wheel speed it's supposed to have. Or it doesn't have the power to pull through a stuck tire, snaps a sidewall ripple and off she goes.
Think of it like really painful and destructive Axle hop on a street car. Similar principle.
As for the traction control causing it, you see the same thing sometimes, looks like just a really quick chatter when guys use the timing "notch" in Alky cars where they knock 10 degrees out of the motor around 1.2 in for a split second to settle the tire.
Back in the old days no water burnouts . My 10 year old son on one side and wife on the other holding the car with vht under the slicks . Do your burnout with the dood open so i could look back a watch him holding the car so it would`nt walk sideways . Push the clutch in when you felt it trying to hook . pull up about 3 ft and do one big dry hop then it should be ready to tearup somemore sh.t .
Dry hops.....those were the days....3400 lb clutch , no rev limiter , foot to the floor and drop the clutch , look out the side window to see where you were going....sorta.
Yea wish we could go back to those days . What would we have thought about these comp cars of today . What would they or us have thought about a 280 inch motor outrunning a P/S car back then .
A few years back when the ink was still wet on my driver's license, I was itching to race my bad to the bone 1984 4 cylinder S-10 with a 4 speed. My buddy had a 4 cylinder Fiero, so the race was on..
Channeling my inner Frank Manzo, I revved it up to 5000 for the start of the race. We counted down and I 'swapped feet'. It wheel hopped so bad the radio came completely out of the dash, the glove compartment door fell off and the inner tray came with it. Was that strong shake or weak?
Fast forward 10 years when I started driving Clack's FC, 'real' tireshake wasn't that much different....
A light just went on , if there is two ends to the tire shake window , the tire pressure would be 4 lbs at one end and 10 lbs at the other. IF and I say IF , you could run 10 lbs in a fast , high HP , light car , and it would spin and hook , that would avoid shake and be the fastest way to run the car. Coming back from 10 lbs you approach the shake zone (due to sidewall distortion) .
How about that.....the complete solution....that's what happens when the light goes on.....if only it was that simple.
More air press to get tire speed has never worked for me . More air press will make a basketball bounce higher though . When you put in more air it rebounds faster and realy shakes then .
When we say more air pressure , 1/8th lb is a change , 1/2 lb is huge , I presume that is what you are also referring to , How about 10 lbs in a C/D , tire , would act like a solid tire , spin like hell , but no shake ?
I will never forget the time we tryed radial tires . The car was still wobbling on the return road . It did it so bad that headers almost touched the ground .
...is a radial rear drag tire thinner or less rigid in the side wall and/or tire contact area/ compared to the tires used in comp today? are they made differently with respect to the steel wire around the rim area?
that comparison is like comparing a golf ball to a donut...........there is no comparison.
ok, drag radials seem to work on some full bodied cars, with single or twin turbo with alot of weight, so why shouldn't they work on a lighter altered, or dragster chassis?
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